Kim Jones is renowned for his playful design approach and his ability to blend relaxed tailoring with streetwear and casual dressing. Though he may not be primarily associated with haute couture, his recent foray into the couture atelier has showcased his versatility. For Dior’s AW25 collection, Jones fully embraced this high-sewing practice, drawing inspiration from the brand’s extensive archives.
The collection began with voluminous, opera-like coats, some cinched at the waist to enhance silhouette. Models showcased slim tailoring, featuring neat boxy leather jackets and ankle-length cigarette trousers, gracefully navigating Kim’s illuminated staircase. Fine-gauge knits sparkled with crystal panels, while ornate brooches adorned lapels. Notably, models wore delicate silk blindfolds—an homage to chiaroscuro, an artistic technique that contrasts dark and light.
As the show progressed, almost ecclesiastical gowns billowed elegantly, complemented by loose trousers that swished gracefully, mimicking the appearance of skirts. Delicate satin blouses added to the sophistication, making this possibly Kim’s most elegant collection yet. However, he maintained his signature street-inflected edge with fresh iterations of classic Dior sneakers and an array of Saddle bags, which have remained popular since their reintroduction in 2021.
Jones emphasized his desire to strip back the design elements for this collection, focusing on clean silhouettes and refined garments. “We wanted to return to the roots and concentrate on the essence of the house,” he explained. The collection reflects a rich fashion history, particularly in menswear, tracing the evolution from the ornate styles of the eighteenth century to the linear and utilitarian designs of the nineteenth century, marking the beginnings of modern menswear.
While Jones takes us on a journey through menswear history, he ultimately aims for the collection to resonate with contemporary themes, stating that he wants it to “say something about now.” This unique blend of past and present positions Kim Jones as a pivotal figure in redefining menswear for today’s fashion landscape.
