Fendi may not currently have a creative director, but Silvia Venturini Fendi, granddaughter of the founders and former collaborator with Karl Lagerfeld, showcased the brand’s rich heritage during Milan Fashion Week. Founded in Rome in 1925, Fendi evolved from selling bags and fur stoles into a fashion powerhouse under Silvia’s mother, Anna, and her aunts. Silvia’s first experience on the runway came at just six years old, dressed in an equestrian costume for Lagerfeld’s debut show.
In the age of AI, Fendi’s recent show served as a poignant reminder of the familial ties and visionary leadership that shaped the brand. Held in Fendi’s expansive Milan headquarters, the show exuded the scale and allure characteristic of Italian fashion. Models included iconic figures like Yasmin Le Bon and Eva Herzigova, adding a sense of nostalgia while celebrating modernity.
The centenary show was not a mere trip down memory lane. Silvia carefully redefined personal elements from the past, such as the opening fur coat, which was actually made of shearling. Long stoles referenced the brand’s origins, and the only actual fur present was a traditional mink coat in a zigzag pattern. Venturini Fendi emphasized Fendi’s prolific nature, echoing Lagerfeld’s mantra: “never look back, just learn from the past.”
The collection exuded refreshing elegance, with pieces like thinly belted shearling coats and a stunning teal silk dress. In contrast, Kim Jones’s recent work felt overly studied and lacked the Roman sense of theater that Venturini Fendi captured effortlessly. As LVMH looks for a new creative director, this vibrant collection raises questions about the necessity of external leadership.
Meanwhile, Diesel delivered an unexpectedly strong show, credited to Glenn Martens’ restrained yet innovative approach. The collection featured classic tweed and houndstooth but opened with dark wool bonded to neoprene, followed by denim looks. As Gucci searches for a new creative director after Sabato De Sarno’s departure, Diesel’s showcase highlighted the importance of strong creative vision in fashion.
